With Ertuğrul-fever (still) running high, Humza Sheikh shows us how to visit the tomb of Ertuğrul and the ‘fathers’ of the Ottoman Empire on a three-stop tour.
Diriliş:Ertuğrul, the wildly popular Turkish historical-drama series, is set in 13th century Anatolia, at the eve of the founding of the Ottoman Empire. The series has a huge following outside of Turkey too, inspiring numerous Facebook fan groups and memes (including a FB page dedicated to them) and no shortage of jokes based on the double-meaning of ‘bey’ (including this title).
Though no doubt dramatised, the series is based on the lives of real people, namely Ertuğrul Gazi, the father of Osman I, who founded the Ottoman Empire, and his contemporaries. As a huge fan, I decided to find out more about the individuals featured in the series and visit their tombs in Turkey.
Who was Ertuğrul?
Ertuğrul Gazi, on whom the popular series is based, was the son of Suleyman Shah, leader of the nomadic Kayi tribe from the steppes of Central Asia. Early in the thirteen century, it is thought that he led his tribe in fleeing the region to avoid the violence of the Mongol invasions, but drowned crossing the Euphrates into Syria. At this point his family divided; two sons led part of the family back to Horasan to enter into Mongol service, while another son, Ertuğrul, led the others westward to Anatolia.1
In his time, the Byzantines and the Seljuks were two of the major competing powers, vying for control of Anatolia, as well as the Mongols. According to the traditionally accepted version of events, Ertuğrul brought 400 followers into the service of the Seljuks, as auxiliaries against both the Byzantines in the west and the Mongols in the east). He was, therefore, rewarded for his efforts by the Seljuk Sultan in Konya, and given land in western Anatolia, namely the two small districts of Söğüt and Domaniç.
Again, according to the popularly accepted version, Ertuğrul Gazi is thought to have envisioned a prosperous and secure state for all peoples, Muslim and non, alike; a state rooted in the principles of the Islamic faith, and justice and fairness for all. This new ‘homeland’ became the foundation for what would become the Ottoman Empire.
Ertuğrul is thought to have passed away in Söğüt at the age of 90 in the late 1290’s.
Is the TV show accurate?
As there are few contemporary source materials concerning this period, and conflicting accounts written in a later period, there is no way to verify the accuracy of this version of events. In fact, some sources question the Kayi connection with the Seljuks , suggesting they were “rootless nomads” who sold themselves to the highest bidders; “further, it was considerably afterward, after the Ottomans had built an empire, that they spread the idea that their ancestors had entered Anatolia as military commanders in Seljuk service, rather than as common nomads, to enhance their own claims to rule.”2
Primary sources on the lives Ertuğrul and Osman are rare. Stories about their lives and struggles were passed down orally, or through references in the writings of their contemporaries. For this reason, it is difficult for historians to verify the facts from legend. And as far as the TV series is concerned, artistic license also has to be taken into consideration.
For more regarding the historical accuracy (or not) of the show, read ‘Is Diriliş: Ertuğrul Historically Accurate? (Part 1 – The Kayi Tribe)‘
Where is Ertugrul buried?
As we’ve already established, there is little reliable historical information about Ertuğrul Ghazi himself, however the location of his tomb is well known and attracts many visitors.
Ertugrul passed away in Söğüt and is buried there with a number of his contemporaries (who are also featured on the show).
Who else can be visited?
Aside from Ertugrul himself, the tombs of his wife Halima, his younger brother Dundar Bey and Samsa Alp are located close by.
His son, Osman I, after whom the Ottoman dynasty is named, is located in Bursa, and Turgut Alp, one of his closest friends and advisors, lies in Inegol, about an hour away from Söğüt. Both also have ‘honorary’ headstones close to the tomb of Ertugrul.
Itinerary
Söğüt , Bursa and Inegol can all be visited on a day trip from Istanbul. I set off from Istanbul at 8am and returned at 8pm.
It is best to travel by car. Though Söğüt is relatively easy to reach, as it is well sign posted (as is Ertugrul’s tomb), if you plan on going on to Inegol and Bursa, I would recommend hiring a driver.
Tour Guide
There are tour guides available to hire who will take you to all of the tombs. I went with @mdvipturizm – contact him on Instagram to go on the same tour I did. (Please note Sacred Footsteps do not organise these tours).
Söğüt: The Tomb of Ertugrul Gazi and Others
The mausoleum of Ertugrul Gazi is said to have originally been built by his son and successor Osman I, however it was rebuilt several times thereafter. The current structure, with its hexagonal plan, was constructed by Sultan Abdul Hamid II in the late 19th century.
Etrugrul’s mausoleum is located in a larger cemetery, in which the graves of his wife Halima Sultan, younger brother Dundar Bey, and Samsa Alp. There is also an honorary grave for Turgut Alp; his actual grave, as we shall see, is located in Inegol.
The mausoleum is usually open between 9am and 5pm.
Inegol: Turgut Alp
Turgut Alp was considered a great warrior, and was a close confidant of Ertugrul, and later his successor, Osman I. After establishing his sultanate, Osman Gazi named Turgut Alp as one of his governors over a territory called Inegol, and its surrounding areas. He governed there for 36 years, and after his death, was buried in a quiet and modest cemetery in the mountains near Inegol, in a hamlet known as Turgut Alp (Genco) village.
Bursa: Osman I
During his own lifetime, Ertuğrul named his son Osman as Bey of the Kayi tribe. Osman continued his father’s struggles and eventually established an ‘Ottoman state’ in 1299. This state would continue to grow and after the conquest of Constantinople in 1453 be officially known as the Ottoman Empire. Like his father however, reliable information about him is scarce.3
Osman Gazi passed away in 1324 during the siege of Bursa, a town in modern day Turkey. He was initially laid to rest in Sogut with his father, however, when Bursa was conquered two years later by Osman’s son Orhan, his body was moved to Bursa as per his last will.
